5



The Village




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A devotee pays his respects to the portrait of Meherji Rana, the famed priest from Navsari who went in 1578 to a religious conference in the court of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, to explain to him the tenets of Zoroastrianism. On the bench a priest's robe called a jamah has been spread out to dry. Hours of prayer in a room with a fire and no fans leaves the priest's robes soaking wet. Navsari Bhagarsath Anjuman Atash Bahram, Gujarat 1982
 

 

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Early morning scene, a woman draws water from the well at the back of her house. Udvada, Gujarat 1984.
 

 

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Cleaning a boi (mullet) for breakfast. Udvada,
Gujarat 1986.


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A devotee pays his respects at the well of the
Iranshah Atash Bahram. Home of the first fire consecrated on Indian soil, the fire has been
kept burning continuously for over 900 years.
Udvada, Gujarat, 1984.

 

 

any fellow Indians, even those with Parsi friends, are often surprised to hear that we once lived in villages. Perhaps we are perceived as urban sophisticates with no roots. It is an understandable perception. Though we are veterans of the city, even the most cultivated, refined, worldly-wise, cosmopolitan Parsi has ancestors who were once farmers, weavers or small-time traders in Gujarat.

          For about three hundred years after landing at Sanjan, Parsis are said to have lived in peace and without molestation. By that time their numbers had greatly increased. Many moved from Sanjan to other parts of India with their families: to Cambay, Navsari, Anklesvar, Variav, Vankaner and Surat in the north, and to Thane and Chaul in the south. Pockets of Parsis were also found in Upper India, mentioned by early travellers: in Sind, Dehra-Dun and Punjab.1

          Whenever they left Sanjan to settle elsewhere, they carried a part of the Iranshah with them-the first fire they had consecrated on Indian soil. But not all climes were as hospitable as Sanjan. In Sind, Ibrahim the Ghaznavid perceived the Parsis as a colony of fire-worshippers and attacked them. In Thana, which was ruled by the Portuguese, they were seen as idolaters and put upon by missionaries to convert to Christianity.2

           In 1305 an opportunity arose that gave Parsis a means to repay their ancient debt to the ruler of Sanjan whose forefather Jadhav Rana had allowed them to settle on his land. Alp Khan, Ala-ud-din Khilji's feared general, was marching towards Sanjan at the head of 30,000 troops. The Hindu ruler of Sanjan trembled for his crown and country. His resources were meagre compared to the enemy facing him. He called for the Parsis. Resolved to fight unto death, one thousand four hundred Parsis under the leadership of their general Ardeshir joined their Hindu ruler's army.3

           The opposing armies met and a fierce battle was fought a few miles beyond Sanjan. The Parsis, fighting for their faith and their homes, led on in a do-or-die mission by the fearless Ardeshir, pressed on and finally broke the enemy's ranks, throwing them into confusion. Alp Khan fled, leaving Ardeshir and his little band victorious on the field.4

           Humiliated by this ignominious defeat at the hands of a few strangers, Alp Khan raised reinforcements and appeared once again to do battle.....

 

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Two women buy the day's first catch in Udvada which is a coastal village known for it's fish, especially the local boi (mullet). Udvada, Gujarat 1983.
 

 

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